London is defined by quirks and witticisms. The past week has provided a host of conversational moments and kitsch details. We were taken into the wild with monsters at Mulberry, dinosaurs at Sophie Hulme, and owls at Burberry. The shows' stagings didn’t shy away from drama; it was all-singing, all-dancing with Stella McCartney’s London return. McQ’s impeccable collection played out in an eerie woodland world, whilst toes were tapping at Meadham Kirchhoff’s disco explosion.
Kookiness aside, London also deals in fashion business and the leader of the pack, Burberry drew a very fine hand this season. Topping the list of most-talked about brands again, the digital bar was raised yet higher with ‘Tweet gifs’ and their embracing of Pinterest. They are the proof that digital works. Some of London’s younger brands would be wise to learn from the masters.
Not only can we measure the scale of a trend, we can also analyse how people feel about it. Overall, sentiment towards the week’s most-talked about trends was cooler than we saw in New York, where checks were 75% positively received compared to 58% in London.
Fanbase increases across the month surrounding LFW are good indicators of online demand. Brands whose increase spiked dramatically could convert this interest into online sales.
During LFW, we analysed the content and sentiment of 17 million tweets. You probably don't have time to read all of them, so here’s our pick of LFW’s most influential.
New York seemed bright, with its bold primary colours. Then came London, and how it shone! Presenting one of the most balanced colour wheels we’ve seen, the designers attacked palettes with guts and confidence.
Poster paint shades of red, blue and orange will raise spirits on dreary winter days. Antonio Berardi’s pop of brilliant blue left an impression and Acne burnt retinas with their acid green and lurid chartreuse.
Elsewhere, the military theme played out in mossy greens, mushrooms and stoney greys. Topshop Unique’s heavy wool coats and fluid shirt dresses carried this palette well, creating an urbanite militant ready to hit the highstreet.
Burberry’s digital nous isn’t the only thing they have sussed: they've a fair few friends in high places too. Monday’s show, was packed to its (transparent) rafters with fashion’s A-listers. The finale’s dramatic staging helped too, rain fell as the models stepped out, umbrellas aloft. Oh, and then there’s the clothes, which actually live up to the marketing hype. The collection was crammed with key trends including peplumed skirts, quilted jackets, floral prints and tweeds.
Over-sized: a trend which requires true mastery to execute well and mastery which Acne proved they have. They experimented with high waists on wide-fit chinos, the lowest cut batwing sleeve you’ve ever seen and an extraordinary bomber-jumper (see it to believe it). Quilting and high-shine leathers further dramatised the effect. Topshop Unique following suit firmly cements this in the cool-category. Their many-layered storm flap coats and oversized dungarees had the exact air of nonchalance that mere mortals can but dream of.
It’s not easy to transcend the naive and playful nature of a stripe, yet Paul Smith did just that. Giving the print an air of sophistication, his chalky linears in a mature palette were both refreshing and understated. He also played with degrade stripes across a pair of tailored slacks. Stripes haven’t grown up everywhere and of course House of Holland let them rip in full techni-colour splendour! Zigged and zagged across dresses, cardies and furs, these stripes blew raspberries at the grown-ups.
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