Marc Jacobs scores again! For the second season running he’s topped the most-talked about designer chart. It might have something to do with the underage model murmurings, but the clothes were fresh too. Elsewhere, New York does slickness, polish and most certainly luxury. This season came fully loaded with desirability, perhaps a sign designers are listening attentively to buyers and consumers. There was an undercurrent of comfort, with models cocooned by sumptuous layers and indulgent textures.
Buzz surrounding the event was lower than SS12 and AW11/12. Perhaps digital marketing teams have taken their foot off the gas with the arrival of live-streaming. Oscar de la Renta brought innovation to the digital table, asking their attendees to tweet inspiration for next season. Now, that’s brave.
We can measure exactly how much people like, or dislike, specific trends. This week’s most talked about theme, vintage, was not the most loved: tailoring was. The runaway trend success was checked prints with an awe-inducing 75% positive reception. Back it, buy it — the public want it.
Fanbase increases across the month surrounding NYFW are good indicators of online demand. Brands whose increase spiked dramatically could do with harnessing that interest in the coming weeks.
@CathyHorynNYT Oy, off to the rugged outdoors with Michael Kors, now giving us blanket checks, fur, chunky socks + monster Mary Janes.
Across the week, we analysed 17 million tweets. You probably don't have time to read all of them, so here’s our pick of NYFW’s most influential.
What began as a dreary week managed to end on a high note, with punchy collections streaming in from Sunday onwards. The colour wheel, which we pull from analysis of every collection, shows SS12’s pastels are now redundant.
Instead, deep and rich hues take their turn. Navy was given plenty of airtime. Our man of the week, Marc Jacobs backed it as did Proenza Schouler. Mossy greens and dusty greys went hand-in-hand with the military and tailoring themes on offer.
Happily disobeying the seasons' rules were vibrant shades of lipstick red from Jason Wu, and jolting orange at Vera Wang. Quirkier highlights came in the form of chartreuse and endive green. Plenty to pick from for AW12/13, it will be interesting to see how London shakes things up!
If ever you need to define so-wrong-it's-right, look no further than Monday's collection. Over-sized and over-layered, the fantastical collection was whimsy at its creepiest. Helena Bonham Carter-esque models in paisley, tinsel, pilgrim shoes and Jamiroquai hats provided a stark contrast to the Marc by Marc Jacobs line. Militant and instantly wearable, with nods to key trends in print and theme, Tuesday showcased the duality that is the genius of Jacobs. A well deserved top spot, for the second season running.
When two of the week’s top designers back a trend, you know it’s going places. Military will be on the racks come AW12/13, and most likely, in your wardrobe. There’s more than one beat to march to. At Victoria Beckham, the army was definitely all-woman, with curves packed into ferocious shapes and waists leashed with double-wrap belts. At Altuzara, double-breasted, brass buttoned coats and slim-fit combat trousers were softened with travel-inspired prints and jangly embellishment.
Cousin of the check, stripes never take themselves too seriously. They’re youthful without naivity, bold yet not madcap. Tying in with the militant theme, graphic stripes were genderless at Richard Chai in a palette of greys and blue. Experimenting with orientation elevates this from the mundane. Given texture when worked into mohair knits at L.A.M.B., this stark print showed a softer side.
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