SPECIAl
REPORT
Milan Fashion Week
After a flurry of sequins and lace, a flock of fresh-faced models and the flashes of style-spotters' SLRs, Milan Fashion Week is over. Following on from our London and New York reports, we measure Milan's social impact.
EDITD was in the virtual front-row of the action, analysing the 300,000+ daily tweets and updates surrounding the shows. Assessing the online buzz and the sentiment towards each look, we’ve compiled the definitive digital guide to Milan Fashion Week's top designers, styles and prints.
Graphing online buzz
Online buzz generated by key MFW designers over the last 12 months
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Online buzz generated by key MFW styles over the last 12 months
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Online buzz generated by key MFW prints over the last 12 months
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Prada reigns, while Gucci's
old-time glamour burns more softly
Forgive us for stating the obvious, but Italians love Italy, and they love Italian fashion. Designers in New York and London scour the globe for inspiration, deconstructing and reinventing, whereas Italy proved once again that it has infinite inspiration at its doorstep.
Frankie Morello’s SS12 collection played with an overtly kitsch theme, including such delights as a Pisa jumpsuit and gold Colosseum belt. D&G’s final standalone collection plundered the decadent Amalfi coast, with traditionally baroque and equestrian scarf prints in rich jewel tones.
A highlight of the week was old-world marketing at Gucci’s Museo opening. Editors from across the globe boarded a private train to Florence for the opening of the label’s museum. Chauffeur-driven Bentleys, an exclusive dinner and a private audience with Blondie ensured it was a lavish affair.
Perhaps telling of the times, Gucci still failed to make our list of Top 10 talked-about designers. We wonder if the investment in VIPs really paid off, given the whole world now can attend shows digitally. Labels that take an inclusive approach to marketing are really reaping rewards these days.
Key looks from the catwalk
How were the big looks received?
Key Fashion Week Tweets
@amcELLEFab basketball inspired show from Chris Kane for Versus. Pastel sportswear detailed mini dresses and fab knitwear. Fresh. #MFW
@Rebecca_ELLEAnother epic Raf Simons for #jilsander show. Herewith, a 'Picasso' jumper t.co/fqXKaTK1
@DazedMagazineMFW S/S12 | Roberto Cavalli went for flora and fauna on sequinned crepe dresses and flapper inspired cuts. We like! ow.ly/6FTEm
@Jess_StamPrada is everything that matters today! Its Miuccia's very own retro producing factory in here... #MFW
@womensweardailyRoberto Cavalli was in the mood for big prints and amped-up embellishment for spring. See the review here: t.co/vwlPu1Fj#MFW
@mmmargheritaDeep into fittings and it's all about the rrrrruffles, the frrrrringes, the flowerrrrrs.... Grrrrrrrrrrr.....
@SamAtRedmagReally pretty Marni show. More candy colours, prints and embellishment + 70sesque brown and yellow t.co/z0SH5zfw
@mrjoezeeI love when a designer surprises you like Jil Sander. Not what I expected. Hats w/veils, rhinestone earrings, mod boots, gingham & paisley.
Buzz + Sentiment = Fashion Week's Top 10
1. Prada
Seen on: Thursday
Hot rodding her way into the top spot, Miuccia Prada’s SS12 homage to chicks and cars received rave reviews front row. Directly referencing the 50s with varsity jackets and bandeau tops, the collection borrowed boyish prints from the menswear collection. Putting the ladies firmly in the driving seat were feminine, accordion pleat dresses and pin-up bathers. The mood was playful and full-blown retro; being the influencer that she is, expect others to jump on board.
Close2. Versus
Seen on: Sunday
Versus, slam dunking in at second place, achieved the near-impossible with their sporty, yet feminine collection. Failing to make our London Top 10 Designers with his mainline collection, Christopher Kane’s pairing with Donatella Versace works. The school gym catwalk belied the grown up take on the theme, there were no shrieking cheerleaders here. Cut-out details in a pastel palette veered towards girlishness, whilst the sleek lines and graphic prints ensured the collection scored big with commentators online.
Close3. Missoni
Seen on: Sunday
As eyebrow-raising as the Missoni SS12 collection was, it is their recent collaboration with budget American retailer, Target, which sees them ranking highly during Milan Fashion Week. This timing can only work to support the buzz around the mainline collection. The Sardinian-inspired collection spoke of balmy, flamenco evenings with its tiered knit dresses and zebra prints. In aruba blue, bright yellow and maroon, the collection's referencing may be too direct for some, but certainly scores for vibrancy.
Close4. Fendi
Seen on: Thursday
Register to read more5. Jil Sander
Seen on: Saturday
Register to read more6. Iceberg
Seen on: Friday
Register to read more7.Versace
Seen on: Friday
Register to read more8. D&G
Seen on: Thursday
Register to read more9. Giorgio Armani
Seen on: Monday
Register to read more10. Roberto Cavalli
Seen on: Monday
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Top 10 Designers
1. Vintage
Seen in: Etro, Gucci
Milan Fashion Week is typically known for its opulence and this season was no different, many of the shapes and detailing invoked the decadence of the pre-depression 1920s. Gucci and Etro both deconstructed the sharp architecture of the Art Deco period. Gucci’s collection in particular, which marked the brands 90th anniversary, employed metallics, rich embellishments and fringing to convey the excess and frivolity of the period.
Close2. Retro
Seen in: Dolce and Gabbana, Marni, Prada
Retro kitsch styles were abundant - from 50’s inspired detailing at Prada and Marni, to Salvatore Ferragamo’s bold 70’s jumpsuits and the 50’s and 60’s Italian glamour embodied in Dolce & Gabbana’s collection. The theme marks a playfulness and lightheartedness that is often absent in the Milan collections, so it’s obvious to see why it quickly became the talk of the town.
Close3. Feminine
Seen in: Francesco Scognamiglio
Finally pipped to the post after taking the top style spot at both New York and London fashion weeks, feminine looks edged in at number three. While many collections embodied the vibe with the pretty pastels favoured this season, Francesco Scognamiglio’s collection channeled the look with a touch of boudoir. Standout pieces included a teal lace dress with cinched waist and peplum, and a peach sheer and lace below the knee pencil skirt.
Close4. Minimal
Seen in: Gianfranco Ferre, Ter et Bantine
Register to read more5. Oversized
Seen in: Albino, Laura Biagiotti
Register to read more6. Burlesque
Seen in: Pin-Up Stars, Dolce and Gabbana
Register to read more7. Sporty
Seen in: Versus, Iceberg, Ter et Bantine
Register to read more8. 1950s
Seen in: Dolce and Gabbana, Prada
Register to read more9. Peasant
Seen in: Luisa Beccario, Emilio Pucci
Register to read more10. Nautical
Seen in: D&G, Paolo Frani, Versace
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Top 10 Styles
1. Checked
Seen in: Jil Sander, Lorenzo Riva
The reign of checks in Milan stands out. Mainly because it’s not floral, as London and New York pushed wholeheartedly. The crisp and fresh appeal of these summer plaids and ginghams won much support online. Best in show goes to Jil Sander, where Raf Simons concocted high-shine checks in purples and navy. Luisa Beccaria took a subtler approach, deftly reworking a painterly polka into a checkerboard repeat.
Close2. Graphics
Seen in: Marni, Versus, Bottega Veneta, Etro
The influx of graphic prints in Milan took a decidedly 1920s bent, with Etro making the most direct parallel. Their fringed flapper dresses need whisking straight out for cocktails and dancing, with printed and embellished patterns borrowing heavily from interior design of the era. Bottega Veneta applied embellishment to make their graphic mark with beaded diamonds and squares resulting in a sleek look.
Close3. Floral
Seen in: Marni, Antonio Marras, Prada
Given their overwhelming presence in New York and London, florals were always going to show face in Milan. And at Marni they really did. Matching a-line skirts and jackets were decked in the kind of lurid retro floral prints normally reserved for swing seats. Prada’s floral brocades also had a strongly retro feel with their intricate formation alluding to doilies, crochet and all things tea-time. Antonio Marras’s offerings stepped in line with florals seen in other cities - oversized, painterly and ultimately very feminine.
Close4. Zebra
Seen in: Missoni, Fendi, Gucci, DSquared2
Register to read more5. Stripes
Seen in: Missoni, Fendi, Iceberg, Gucci
Register to read more6. Paisley
Seen in: Jil Sander, Emilio Pucci
Register to read more7. Leopard
Seen in: Just Cavalli
Register to read more8. Animal motif
Seen in: Just Cavalli, DSquared2
Register to read more9. Snakeskin
Seen in: Roberto Cavalli, Just Cavalli
Register to read more10. Polka Dot
Seen in: D&G, Moschino Cheap & Chic
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Top 10 Prints
About EDITD
EDITD connects fashion, luxury and apparel people with the data they need to make better decisions. EDITD is a cloud-based social, commercial and factual observation instrument, giving businesses the ability to quickly understand trends and market dynamics, both historically and in real time. Far beyond inspiration, EDITD is factual information; essential for how the fashion industry is evolving.
